How the Cocoa Bean Found Its Way to Aberlour

Ich neige ja grundsätzlich zur Schockverliebtheit. Insbesondere, wenn das Objekt der Begierde etwas mit Schokolade zu tun hat. Die The Macallan Harmony Collection passt dazu perfekt.

When a press appointment has something to with chocolate, you don’t need to ask me twice.

That’s precisely what happened when I discovered The Macallan Harmony Collection, more specifically the “Rich Cacao” single malt, first released in 2021 as the debut of a new annual limited-edition series. This year brings a newcomer, “Fine Cacao,” and, as the name suggests, the collection unites two of life’s three greatest joys — the kind that spark dopamine and endorphin rushes alike: whisky and chocolate.

The collection marks a continuation of a long-standing collaboration between The Macallan and the world-renowned restaurant El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain.

One of the three Roca brothers, acclaimed pastry chef Jordi Roca, is celebrated far beyond Spain for his artisanal chocolate house, Casa Cacao. During a research trip, whisky-maker Polly Logan visited the Girona workshop and immersed herself in the world of fine chocolate. There, she spent time with master chocolatier Damian Allsop, whose passion, expertise, and creativity became the spark behind The Macallan Harmony Collection.

Back at the Macallan Estate warehouses in Aberlour, Logan set out to identify and highlight the cask characteristics that could evoke the desired cocoa notes. The result — thanks to the sensory precision and deep knowledge shared between Allsop and Logan — emerged from the distillery’s European and American oak sherry-seasoned casks, whose distinct personalities became the foundation for the whisky’s flavor profile.

THE BEST EXCUSE TO EAT CHOCOLATE

The 2022 “Fine Cacao” still sits on my wishlist — so let’s focus for now on its predecessor, the “Rich Cacao.”

The influence of Jordi Roca and Damian Allsop — two masters of the chocolate craft — is unmistakable here. It’s not exactly news that certain cask maturations can lend whisky chocolate-like notes, but in this case, the intensity is truly remarkable.

On the nose, the whisky doesn’t initially conjure the sweetness of chocolate as we know it. Instead, it reveals pure, fruity cocoa aromas — unsweetened, with a subtle acidity reminiscent of raw cacao beans. The palate, however, tells a different story: crafted from a combination of European and American oak casks, this full-bodied single malt offers an interplay of dark chocolate bitterness from the former and gentle vanilla from the latter, leaving a soft, almost creamy mouthfeel. Opulent yet sensual, it’s a whisky made to be paired with fine chocolate.

The Macallan Harmony Collection – Rich Cacao Tasting im Park Hyatt in Wien.

In keeping with The Macallan’s commitment to nature, The Harmony Collection also explores the realm of sustainable packaging — and, true to its cacao-inspired concept, the bottle presentation pays tribute to chocolate itself. Each bottle comes in a fully recyclable, biodegradable box, crafted from cocoa pod husks, the natural by-products of chocolate production. A poetic fusion of The Macallan’s heritage craftsmanship and modern sustainability design.

Even the packaging made from cocoa shells is a highlight in itself.” © THE MACALLAN

The Macallan Harmony Collection – Rich Cacao Tasting at the Park Hyatt in Vienna.

IT’S A CHOCOLATE KIND OF MAGIC

A little side story from what might just be Glasgow’s best bar.

The irresistible chemistry between alcohol and chocolate — yes, those dopamine and endorphin surges again — is something mixologists, whisky makers, and sommeliers have long mastered. Yet the real artistry lies in what Allsop and Logan achieved: capturing the essence of chocolate without ever using it.

One shining example deserves mention here: The Absent Ear, an absinthe bar and arguably Glasgow’s finest. The team serves a small but impeccable lineup of cocktails, each crafted with knowledge, precision, and imagination. Among them is “The Black Forest Cat,” a drink that perfects the chocolate illusion without a trace of actual cocoa. Built on a base of The Macallan (or, alternatively, Courvoisier or Brugal 1888), it weaves together matcha, cherry, coconut, and nutty sherry into a layered, sensory experience that feels — unmistakably — like chocolate.