“Nothing is as constant as change,” Thomas Ritzer quotes the philosophy of Heraclitus of Ephesus. For over two decades, he has been responsible for the kitchen at the Stanglwirt, witnessing first-hand the social, economic, and above all culinary transformations of recent years. The most lasting shift, he notes, is the move towards meat-free cuisine. A change that must be handled with care in a traditional establishment. “In the more than 40 years I’ve worked in gastronomy, I’ve seen many trends come and go, from Mediterranean and Asian influences to molecular cuisine and the Nouvelle Cuisine of the 1980s,” recalls the likeable Tyrolean. “Some elements have endured to this day, others have disappeared. One trend, however, has firmly established itself and will certainly stay with us: the vegetarian and vegan lifestyle. This development is partly due to a generational shift, and partly to a growing awareness of sustainability, regionality, and animal welfare. Of course, we wanted to respond to this and have expanded our menus to include many vegetarian and vegan dishes, without losing our roots in traditional, nature-oriented cuisine.”

“Organic” from exotic to bio hotel

The origins of what is now known as the Biohotel Stanglwirt date back to the 17th century, a time when living and working in harmony with nature was the only possible way of life. In the 1970s, host Balthasar Hauser had the vision of reviving exactly this harmony, a hotel where guests could fully relax in tune with nature, far from everyday stress, electromagnetic exposure, and chemically treated materials. “Back then, ‘organic’ was still something exotic,” Ritzer smiles, though today the concept is second nature in his kitchen. Even then, Hauser consistently relied on natural building materials and stood firm against skepticism, with success. Soon, guests didn’t just want to stay in an organic hotel, they wanted to taste it too.

“For the kitchen, this meant a new and exciting challenge: converting a large portion of our products to organic quality,” the head chef explains. “Today, around 80% of the products at the breakfast buffet come from certified organic sources, including cold cuts from the organic butcher Juffinger in Thiersee, eggs from regional organic farms, and dairy products from our own organic hay-milk farm. For us, this is not just a mark of quality, but an expression of naturalness, authenticity, and regionality that has been lived for generations.”

Regional food

Agriculture plays a central role at the Biohotel Stanglwirt. “The hotel quite literally grew around the cowshed, with the accompanying manure heap,” laughs eleventh-generation host Maria Hauser, adding, “It’s probably the most photographed manure heap in Austria.”

100% of the drinking milk, as well as yogurt, curd cheese, mountain cheese, and other varieties, come from the hotel’s own farm, complete with its own dairy and butcher’s shop. Organic farming is overseen by Johannes Hauser, who recently opened the world’s first hotel-owned organic energy power plant together with the entire Stanglwirt family.

What often goes unnoticed, Thomas Ritzer tells us, are the Stanglwirt’s own fishing waters. Within the overall concept of “organic,” sustainable fish sourcing is, of course, equally essential. “Fortunately, a lot has changed over the past twenty years when it comes to local ingredients. Young, committed agronomists have dedicated themselves to producing high-quality products. There are also excellent fish breeders who raise native species in our largely untouched natural environment, with its cold mountain streams, as well as our own fishing waters,” Ritzer explains. “For me, fish from local waters is an exceptionally valuable product. The quality can easily compete with turbot, sea bass, or even lobster.”

At this iconic Austrian hotel, the focus on regionality is now effortlessly balanced with the expectations of prominent and international guests. “I like the quote ‘To please everyone is an art that no one can master,’” Maria Hauser says in conversation. “The Stanglwirt brand stands for regionality, sustainability, and living in harmony with nature, and our guests from all over the world truly appreciate that. They can feel that we mean it sincerely and often emphasize that they don’t feel like they’re in a sterile five-star design hotel, but rather at home.”

A new opening and staying curious

While seasonal stars such as game, pumpkin, and beetroot once again take center stage in the kitchen, a new à la carte family restaurant, “Leni’s,” has opened at the hotel. “It complements the traditional inn with its strongly regional cuisine and the hotel restaurant with its international focus by adding another popular facet: a healthy, Mediterranean high-end cuisine for all generations,” Ritzer reveals.

After 21 years as head chef, one principle still holds true for him. “A rolling stone gathers no moss. Even if it can be challenging at times, it’s important for us to keep evolving. The art lies in preserving time-honored traditions, not forgetting your roots, while also adapting to new circumstances. Our motto is: don’t stand still, stay curious, and always make the best of every situation. And something I always like to pass on to my younger colleagues: cook with love and be proud of your craft, because what you do with love will turn out well.”

The post In the 70ies, “organic” was something exotic. Here’s who did it anyway – and succeeded more than anyone. first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

From Austrian Underdog to Global Powerhouse

Few chefs have rewritten their own destiny the way Wolfgang Puck has. Raised in the small Austrian town of St. Veit with a father who didn’t believe in his son, he built a career that reshaped American fine dining. Over four decades, he turned “California Cuisine” into a global language. Today, his name stands for nearly 70 restaurants worldwide, from Michelin-starred dining rooms to airport concepts. Spago became a Hollywood institution. A star on the Walk of Fame followed. So did friendships with A-list regulars who treat his dining room like a second living room.

A Generational Shift With Vision

Just last year, Wolfgang Puck said in an interview that he plans to work until he turns 100, or simply until the very end. That mindset has not changed. Still, when it comes to WP Fine Dining, his successor has been preparing behind the scenes for quite some time, ready to step into a leadership role as the company enters its next chapter. Byron Lazaroff-Puck, 31, grew up inside the family enterprise. As the son of Wolfgang Puck and restaurateur Barbara Lazaroff, he was immersed early in the rhythms of elite hospitality. He refined his craft in some of the world’s most respected kitchens, including Steirereck in Vienna, El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, and Le Bernardin in New York.

On March 3, he officially assumes leadership of Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining. The portfolio includes international outposts of the CUT and Spago brands, with locations in Bahrain, Bodrum, Singapore, and Maui. The casual division, WP Worldwide, as well as the catering arm responsible for the annual Oscars Governors Ball, will remain structurally unchanged for now.

The Generational Tasting Tour

As the company’s new president, Byron Lazaroff-Puck will symbolically take the baton from his father as part of a culinary “world tour.” The gourmet celebration begins on March 3 at CUT in Washington, D.C., before continuing in 15 restaurants across six countries. The Generational Tasting Tour is an exclusive dinner series where father and son meet through food. Wolfgang Puck presents the classics that shaped 44 years of California cuisine, while Byron introduces dishes that reflect his own perspective and signature style. It is a dialogue between two generations that promises both continuity and change. CUT, elegantly set inside the Rosewood Hotel in Georgetown, provides a fitting and impressive stage for the occasion. Guests can attend the five-course dinner for $395 and take part in a moment that marks the next chapter of the Puck legacy.

The post Passing the Torch: Byron Lazaroff-Puck Becomes President of WP Fine Dining first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

Dutch top chef Michiel Van den Berg has taken over as the new head chef of the Salzburgerstube in Zell am See, inviting local palates to experience an entirely new spectrum of flavors. Also new to the team is Head Pastry Chef Daniel Sarközi, who joins Van den Berg in shaping an exciting, internationally inspired kitchen. A closer look:

Germknödel, yuzu, paprika cabbage, brown butter, matcha, Bladl (tyrolian dumplings): Austrian and Asian cuisines could hardly be more different. And yet, they complement each other remarkably well, as the ever-popular “fusion” style proves. It is precisely this approach that now sets the tone at the Salzburgerstube in the Hotel Salzburgerhof under Van den Berg’s culinary direction. The Dutch chef previously demonstrated his passion for fusion cuisine at “Fritz & Friedrich” in Obertauern. Now, at the helm of the Salzburgerstube kitchen, he showcases just how far creative combinations can go.

A fusion of worlds: “Grammelknödel”, Yuzu & more

Van den Berg’s cuisine tells the story of two distinct worlds, bringing together Alpine produce and the vibrant aromatic spectrum of Asia — not as a gimmick or provocation, but as a clear and consistent signature. His philosophy puts the natural flavor of each ingredient at the center, then reinterprets it through technique, acidity, umami, and texture.

This becomes evident from the very first course of the tasting menu: hamachi with ponzu, brown butter espuma, and spring onion, as well as a reinvented version of Grammelknödel with paprika cabbage and Italian lardo. Pinzgauer Bladl with sauerkraut anchor the menu in the region, while a yuzu sorbet with buttermilk–matcha espuma and caramelized puffed rice continues the culinary journey to the Far East.

“With passion, precision, and a refined sense for flavor, Michiel and his team create moments of pleasure that connect,” says Hotel Director Bettina Tiefenbacher.

With its fine wood carvings, traditional tiled stove, and a view into the enchanting garden, the Salzburgerstube provides the perfect setting for elevated cuisine – and a quiet stage for new ideas that speak for themselves.

A Sweet Finale with an International Story

Desserts are overseen by Daniel Sarközi, who has taken on the role of Head Pastry Chef after years in renowned international establishments. His career has taken him to China, Hotel National Zermatt in Switzerland, Palazzo Parisio in Malta, Guadeloupe, and several top Austrian venues.

Under Sarközi, house-made desserts remain a hallmark of the restaurant, now enriched with greater depth -incorporating techniques and flavors that go beyond classic hotel patisserie while staying true to their roots.

The post Sashimi in the Alps: Van den Berg, the Master of Fusion first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

The year 2024 burned itself quite literally into the back of their minds. Just weeks before the scheduled reopening of their newly renovated Hotel Haus Zirngast, Marcel and Andrea Zirngast had to face the worst possible scenario. Caused by a technical defect, the roof truss caught fire, which eventually spread to a large part of the house. “After a catastrophe like that, everything stands still,” says the pair, who chose not to give up. The à la carte restaurant of Haus Zirngast had already been newly conceptualized by long-time friend and colleague Thomas Gruber, at the time well-known chef of the Falkensteiner Hotel at Velden Castle on Lake Wörthersee. “We had already dreamed of working together for many years,” says the renowned chef from southern Austria. “I had developed menus, conceptualized the kitchen, coached the staff, and during this process it felt more and more like planning my own restaurant. Then, in 2024, everything stopped.” The owners took the opportunity and rebuilt the hotel, added another floor, and expanded the design concept to the entire house. “Everything speaks one language now, which is ‘Styrian Hygge’,” says Gruber. Hygge is a Danish word and concept describing a feeling of comfort and contentment, which has become widely popular in other cultures as well. That said, the trend of Hygge is not only “comfy and chill” but also comes with a certain design expectation. “This means we use a lot of natural materials like light wood, arranged in a clean design with clear lines. At the same time, it is combined with darker colours like navy blue, creating the typical Scandinavian feeling. This is reflected in the design. In the kitchen, we also try to put this concept of comfort into action, while combining it with our biggest priority and passion: the use of regional products and traditional cuisine in a new approach.”

Passion for Regional Identity

After more than seven years as the executive chef of a five-star hotel, Thomas Gruber, who started in December as head chef of Haus Zirngast, was looking forward to applying his regional and down-to-earth style of cuisine to his new position. “I have always stayed true to my beliefs and my approaches when it comes to regional identity and local cuisine, but in a hotel, not everything is possible. You have to work with large and constantly changing teams, and you have an obligation to guests to always offer a wide variety of food. At Haus Zirngast, the circumstances allow me to work much more freely and experimentally. And it is absolutely terrific. And the guests love it. Regulars from Graz to Salzburg come to eat with us.” In his kitchen, Gruber has an ace up his sleeve: sous chef Michelle Kohlweiss, with whom he worked for six years, has joined him on his journey into a new culinary chapter. “It is a game changer to enter a new kitchen with someone who already knows the dynamics and the way we work.” Together, they are already planning culinary events in the new Schladming hotspot, aiming to refresh the reputation of traditional Austrian cuisine and shed new light on the creative potential hidden beneath it. For a new gastronomic start, the timing could not be better. The popular tourist destination Schladming, which is especially popular in winter, is currently undergoing significant change, says Gruber. “In terms of regional avant-garde, a lot is happening at the moment. And in March, Schladming will host the Austrian Michelin Awards Ceremony.” The chef also adds that it is the house, the people, and the philosophy, more than the place itself, that inspired him to make the change. “If Haus Zirngast were anywhere else, I would be there too.”

Hygge in the Hotel and on the Plate

On the plate, the idea of comfort and regional identity, combined with the feeling of “Styrian Hygge”, can look like this: Cacio e Pepe, the Italian pasta classic, reimagined with traditional Austrian potato-based pasta. Or Szegediner cabbage stew, traditionally made with beef, but prepared with local fish, making it smoother and adding subtle elegance while remaining rooted in regional cuisine. The boutique concept of the hotel itself follows a clean, soothing, Scandinavian-inspired look, combined with a subtle urban touch. The hotel offers breakfast, and the restaurant is open to everyone. For the owners Marcel and Andrea Zirngast, the philosophy of their hotel lies close to their hearts. “Styrian Hygge” is not intended to follow any trend. It is about arriving consciously, about places where you can unwind, reconnect with yourself, and experience genuine closeness to nature, to other people, and to yourself. Inspired by Scandinavian life philosophies such as Hygge and Lagom, a Swedish concept of balance and contentment, we translate these values into our own language: honest, down-to-earth, and deeply rooted in Styria. For us, coziness is not a matter of decoration, but of feeling. Of taking time. Of simplicity that feels good. Of quality over excess. Whether in our hotel, at our campsite, or in the restaurant, our goal is to create spaces and moments that slow you down and allow resonance.

The post Hygge, regional sourcing & a new era full of hope first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

Hidden in idyllic countryside near the River Drau, in the South Carinthian village of Tainach, regional fine dining sets the tone. This is where brothers Michael and Wolfgang Sicher run their family business, considered by chefs and guests alike to be Carinthia’s undisputed number one address for fish. What makes it special: every fish comes from the restaurant’s own ponds, and even the most exotic-looking herbs are grown in the garden. For its exceptional commitment to regional sourcing, the restaurant was awarded the Michelin Green Star last year.

Around 60 years ago, Alfons and Erna Sicher established the guesthouse and, shortly after, the fish farm at the family’s historic sawmill. Today, 24 ponds are home to various species of char, trout, and sturgeon. Michael Sicher tends to his fish with remarkable dedication. “I allow myself the luxury of giving the fish the time they need to grow,” he says. Fed by a nearby stream carrying fresh spring water, the fish also have plenty of space – “more than organic regulations would require,” explains the fish expert. But that is far from the only distinguishing feature.

“I’m personally not a fan of net fishing. For me, stress-free killing is the top priority. That’s why we work with the Japanese ikejime technique.” And not only for ethical reasons. As with mammals, the killing process and the release of stress hormones have a direct impact on meat quality. The Japanese method involves catching the fish without stress, followed by a precise spike to the brain and a specific incision along the spinal cord. A practical advantage when the fish are raised in one’s own ponds. “I have the luxury of being able to control quality myself,” says Sicher. It is this quality that has become known far beyond Carinthia’s borders.

The char caviar is the flagship product of the business and considered a true delicacy. “We harvest the char caviar very gently,” explains Michael Sicher, who here too pays close attention to farming and production conditions to ensure the highest possible quality. Unlike industrial caviar production, the fish are neither killed nor injured. Instead, the eggs are extracted through gentle pressure, allowing the fish to return to the cold spring water shortly afterwards. The glowing orange pearls are not easy to come by, however. “The yield is small—we have to supply our regular customers,” says the host, who supplies Michelin-starred chefs well beyond Austria’s borders. Still, he lets slip one secret: “You can buy the caviar at Rumpel Delikatessen in Vienna’s Hietzing district!”

The char remains the bestseller for good reason. “I could never take the char carpaccio with char caviar off the menu. Some guests come here specifically for that dish.” That international fish dishes – take the perennial Peruvian trend dish ceviche – work beautifully with local ingredients is something Sicher’s creations demonstrate year-round. Alongside various fish from the ponds, the winter version of ceviche features beetroot. “I use different types of fish, combined with smoked sour cream and Mexican giant marigold,” he explains. The latter, of course, is not an imported ingredient. The aromatic citrus herb is just one of many plants thriving in the restaurant’s own garden – alongside five varieties of coriander, goji berries, kiwis, hazelnuts, yams, and countless other herbs, fruits, berries, and rarities that flourish remarkably well in Carinthia’s climate. Sicher is particularly enthusiastic about the deep-red “blood apple” from his garden, which he prepares in various ways – currently as a dessert with quark.

Beaver on the Sicher Winter Menu

Fish takes center stage in the tasting menus and à la carte offerings alike, unfolding into a creative play of flavors inspired by cuisines from around the world. When meat does appear on the menu, it does so deliberately and with restraint, in keeping with the restaurant’s regional philosophy. In the colder months, this might mean venison as a main course, paired with amaranth, plum and Topinambur. Or: beaver ravioli.

What caused quite a stir in the media last year—sparked by Burgenland’s outspoken chef Max Stiegl—has since settled down somewhat. Or, as Michael Sicher puts it: “It has arrived in people’s minds.” Namely, the idea that what may be legally hunted should also be processed and used. Since the introduction of Carinthia’s new “beaver regulation” in 2025, up to 148 beavers may be culled annually in cases of damage and to slow their spread. A circumstance that, if you will, opens up new culinary possibilities. “In terms of texture, the meat probably comes closest to venison, though it has a character all of its own,” says Sicher. He braises the meat before turning it into a filling for ravioli, which are then served with porcini purée and a soft-cooked quail egg.

Beyond that, winter gives the stage to produce from the restaurant’s own garden—celeriac, carrots, pumpkin, kiwi and hazelnuts among them—joining the various fish dishes in a colorful, wintry dance.

No Calamari?

Fish remains the undisputed focus here, in all its forms—from classic à la carte dishes to a fully fledged, creative seven-course menu with wine pairings curated by younger brother Wolfgang Sicher. That the term “fish restaurant” is sometimes underestimated is taken with good humor. “It does happen that tourists sit down and say, ‘What kind of fish restaurant is this—you don’t even have calamari,’” Sicher laughs. “They usually end up going somewhere else on their own.”

The post Michael Sicher talks sustainable Caviar, Fine Dining and Beaver Ravioli first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

Tucked away at Neustiftgasse 84, just beyond Vienna’s city center, Saint George is one of those places locals whisper about—the kind you only find when someone lets you in on the secret. “We’re a family here,” says George Muka, who, together with his partner Chrysa Zouzeli, fulfilled a lifelong dream just over a year ago: opening their own bar. The result is a new address for serious mixology, one with a Mediterranean soul and a Southern-Balkan heart. Every syrup, cordial, and infusion is made by George himself, right there in his small kitchen.

Like many who have made Vienna their home, George Muka was born in Albania and grew up in Chalkidiki, Greece. Chrysa hails from Thessaloniki, where the two first met. Their bar mirrors the rhythm of their roots—warmth, dedication, community, and a love for slow, conscious enjoyment.

After years in hospitality and bar management—most recently at the acclaimed Josef Bar—George decided it was time to build something of his own. Saint George carries his name, his craft, and all his hours. “I don’t have any staff yet—maybe one day—but for now it’s just Chrysa and me.” By day, she works in an entirely different world: “I have a Bachelor’s in Psychology and a Master’s in Human Resource Management & Development,” Chrysa explains. “I work in HR, focusing on talent acquisition.” George smiles: “Saint George is actually her first hands-on experience in gastronomy—and it’s been such a positive and rewarding surprise!”

A Taste of Home

For both of them, Vienna is a city they plan to stay in for good. “We love the quality of life here,” says George, “and the diversity of the bar scene. It’s full of people from different cultural and professional backgrounds. That mix creates stories, new approaches, and a creative energy that keeps everything evolving.”

Working without staff means George runs the show from prep to last call. His bar is also his kitchen: he produces everything from syrups and cordials to infused spirits and garnishes. Signature creations like the Malaka Negroni (gin, vermouth, and baklava-infused Campari) or the Greek Salad cocktail (complete with spices, tomato, and cucumber essence) channel the flavors of his Mediterranean upbringing.

Spritzes or highballs? You won’t find them here. Instead, Saint George caters to personal taste and even crafts thoughtful non-alcoholic options. The mood is elegant yet relaxed, with timeless music and a quiet attention to detail that feels almost old-world.

A Bar with Heart

After its first year, the verdict is clear: Saint George has built a loyal following. “Our priority has always been the experience,” says Chrysa. “We want people to feel welcome, relaxed, and valued—and we want to enjoy what we do just as much. It’s about mindful drinking, respect, warmth, and genuine joy in connecting with others.”

Guests, she says, often return not just for the drinks but for the connection. “Many have become close friends—that means a lot to us.” There’s no Wi-Fi on purpose; guests are encouraged to be fully present, enjoying the conversation and the moment.

Community, Inspiration & Everyday Life

For now, the couple runs the bar alone but hopes to expand the team in the future. They’re also interested in guest shifts and masterclasses—events that build community and foster exchange. “We love the idea of formats that highlight not just cocktails, but hospitality and the human element behind the bar,” says Chrysa. Among their inspirations: Death & Co. in New York and The Jerry Thomas Speakeasy in Rome.

But time for travel is scarce. “George manages everything in the bar during the day—from prep to fine-tuning—and he also takes care of most things at home,” says Chrysa. “I work full-time in HR and help out at night and on weekends. I also handle the admin for the bar—and I love creating a sense of home for us.”

George nods. “Our weekends are for reflecting, brainstorming, and shaping the life we want to live together. We’re not just business partners—we’re a couple, best friends, and partners in crime. That’s what makes this whole journey so special.”

The post “Saint George”: Vienna’s Hidden Mixology Gem by George & Chrysa first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

Carinthian wine enjoys considerable recognition, often more so abroad than at home. This is surprising given that Carinthia is historically Austria’s oldest wine-growing region, offering particularly compelling climatic and geological conditions. Loschental, located in the Lavant Valley near St. Paul, lies at the heart of this tradition: it is part of Carinthia in southern Austria and represents the country’s oldest viticultural area.
“We have excellent conditions for wine production and several outstanding producers,” Sabine David explains. “Yet people in Carinthia sometimes still struggle to fully appreciate the value of wine from their own region.” Trained as a mechanical engineer, David entered winemaking as a career changer in 2010, initially cultivating a small vineyard as a hobby. The decisive step toward professional production came in 2012 with the purchase of the traditional farm known as vulgo Ritter in St. Paul im Lavanttal.

“Ritter,” meaning knight in German, is the historic Austrian name of the estate – an identity rooted in local tradition and still closely tied to the character of the winery today.

At present, four vineyards extend across two hectares, each defined by distinct soil profiles—a particularly intriguing aspect for wine connoisseurs. “I work with limestone soils, primary rock, and even up to two metres of clay sitting on a karst base,” says David, describing a combination that is unusual for Carinthia. “I find it fascinating to observe how different soils shape the character of the wines. Limestone-grown wines are typically lean and mineral,” she continues, referencing France’s Champagne region as the world’s most famous limestone terroir. “Clay is heavy, and the wines are broader and more powerful. Clay brings weight, while limestone delivers elegance and finesse.” These contrasts can be experienced directly during tastings, where guests sample three Chardonnays from three different vineyard sites, each defined by its soil type. The differences are unmistakable.

Alongside Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Muskateller, Pinot Noir, Rotburger and Blauburger, new grape varieties will soon enter production. A newly planted vineyard is farmed organically, without chemical plant protection. Here, Souvignier Gris is growing, but the focus lies on Satin Noir and Cabernet Cortis, which are intended to form a future cuvée. Family life is closely interwoven with the estate: the couple’s three children, still of kindergarten and primary school age, already help out enthusiastically in the vineyards. David’s husband, Dominique, has recently taken up craft brewing as a hobby. The estate also offers tastings in an idyllic farm setting, with the beers now available for purchase as well. In addition, the property serves as a venue for weddings, corporate events and private celebrations.

The wines of Weingut vlg. Ritter are highly regarded in Austrian gastronomy and hospitality, as well as by private customers, and are exported as far as the United States. Annual production amounts to around 10,000 bottles. The now well-known label features an illustration showing Dominique himself; its distinctive artistic style appears to give form to the “Ritter”.

Each year, the wines receive multiple international gold and silver awards. In addition, Sabine David has expanded the range to include vermouth. “For a long time, it was considered old-fashioned, but it has made a strong comeback as a long drink or as an aperitif,” she explains. “We serve it, for example, with tonic, and it’s extremely well received. We have everything we need right here: the wine, the grape spirit we produce ourselves, and the herbs from our own garden.” The estate’s first sparkling wine, Vin de Femme, produced in collaboration with fellow winemaker and farmer Martina Lippitz, has also enjoyed great success.

Last summer, David operated a pop-up vinotheque at Lake Klopeiner See together with fellow winemakers from Klagenfurt, the first of its kind, featuring exclusively Carinthian wines. “Wine lovers and gastronomy professionals came from all over Austria. Many told us they had heard a lot about Carinthian wine but had no idea where to find it.” Stronger word-of-mouth, better marketing and a reputation that truly reflects the quality of local wines are still in the making, says the Lavant Valley winemaker, who is working closely with her colleagues toward that goal. “The best advice I can give is to visit the winemakers directly, taste the wines on site, and experience the region’s true potential for yourself.”

The post The “Knight” and their Wine first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

 In Loschental near St. Paul (Carinthia, Austria), the Ritter vineyard produces Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and other varieties, and will soon be adding new organic varieties to its range. Sabine David’s multi-award-winning wines are pioneering the future of Carinthia as a wine-growing region.

Carinthian wine is very popular, but usually more so outside the region. This is despite the fact that Carinthia is historically Austria’s oldest wine-growing region and is interesting in terms of both climate and geology. ‘We have the best conditions for wine production and there are some very good producers. But Carinthians sometimes still find it difficult to appreciate wine from their own region,’ sums up winemaker Sabine David in an interview. The mechanical engineer started as a career changer with her first hobby vineyard in 2010. When she acquired the Hof vulgo Ritter in St. Paul im Lavanttal in 2012, the foundation for professional wine production was laid.

Today, four vineyards thrive on two hectares of land with different soil characteristics. This is an exciting factor for wine connoisseurs. ‘I have limestone soil, primary rock, but also two metres of loam on a karst stock,’ reveals David. This is an unusual combination for Carinthia. “I find it exciting to see what the soils are like and how they influence the taste. Limestone wines are usually very light and mineral,‘ the winemaker continues, referring to the French Champagne region as the most famous of all limestone regions. ’Loam soil is heavy, and the wines are also broader

and heavier. Loam is powerful, limestone produces light and elegant wines.” Guests can taste the direct difference in three Chardonnays – and taste it too!

 In addition to Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Muscat, Pinot Noir, Rotburger and Blauburger, new varieties are to be cultivated in the future. The new vineyard, which is organically farmed – i.e. without chemical plant protection products – is only a few months old. Souvignier Gris is grown there, but mainly Satin Noir and Cabernet Cortis, which are to be used to produce a cuvée. The three children, who are of nursery and primary school age, already help out actively in the vineyard. Dominique recently started brewing beer as a hobby. The winery also offers tastings at its idyllic farm, and the beers are now also available for purchase. In addition, the winery offers space for weddings, company outings and celebrations of all kinds.

Trade & Projects

The wines are appreciated in Austrian restaurants and hotels as well as by private customers, and are also exported to the USA. 10,000 bottles are produced annually, and the distinctive label features

an illustration by Sabine’s husband Dominique. Every year, the wines win several international gold and silver awards. Sabine has also started producing vermouth. “It was a dusty drink for a long time, but it’s back in vogue in the form of long drinks or as an aperitif! We serve it with tonic, for example, and it’s really popular. And we have everything we need for it: we

have the wine, we make the brandy and I add the herbs from the garden.”

Last summer, she ran a pop-up wine bar on Lake Klopeiner

See together with Klagenfurt winegrowers, the first of its kind, stocked exclusively with Carinthian wine. ‘Wine and food lovers from all over Austria came by. Many said they had heard a lot about Carinthian wine but didn’t know where to get it.’ Increased word of mouth, better marketing and a reputation that does justice to local wines are things that still need to develop, according to the friendly Lavant Valley native, who

is working together with colleagues to achieve this. ‘I can only recommend going directly to the winemakers to get to know the wines and get an idea of their potential.’

The post The Magic of the Soil: Winemaker Sabine David About Her Wines first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

One of Austria’s largest wineries is firmly committed to team spirit across generations. A visit to Andau.

 

In Andau, the vines of one of the country’s most famous wineries grow on what is probably the strongest foundation there is: the cohesion of generations, family, and partnership. At the Scheiblhofer Winery, the (last) name says it all, and guests who visit the winery notice the family’s signature wherever they look. What senior boss Johann “Big John” Scheiblhofer founded here in 1986 is now a successful business covering 104 hectares of its own land and 20,000 square meters of area, producing 2.5 million bottles per year and growing from 87 to 243 employees in a year and a half.

Cohesion & Investment

All of this is based on tremendous internal cohesion and the combined efforts of the Scheiblhofer family – senior manager Maria Scheiblhofer, her sons Erich and Harald with their partners Bettina and Margit, and a solid team of employees beyond the winery itself form the basis of everyday life at the winery. The daughters-in-law contribute their expertise as key players in the business: “Despite its size, we are particularly proud to still be a family business. My wife Bettina studied business administration and manages the business with me. Margit is an oenologist and is responsible for the cellar book and quality and employee assurance at the winery. It quickly became clear to both of them that they could best apply what they had learned and their skills in their own business,” reveals managing director Erich Scheiblhofer during a tour of the business. In 2000, he took over the winery from his father – and some details bear his signature. While Johann Scheiblhofer branded the bottles with the iconic bird, Erich established the ‘The Legends’ series with the new lettering. Then as now, not as a label, but as an elaborately produced screen print directly on the glass. The storage also has a special feature; ‘Big John’s’ wines were stored in American oak, while the younger generation’s wines were stored in French oak. Special editions paying homage to timeless pop culture include Erich’s wines ‘The Dark Lord’, “Mordor” and ‘The Peak of Glory’. The expansion of Scheiblhofer’s activities also reached a remarkable high point recently with the opening of the wellness hotel ‘The Resort’, the restaurant ‘The Quarter’ and the guest house ‘The Hangover’ on the winery’s premises. Sustainable energy sources are a focus throughout the entire operation, with the largest private photovoltaic system in Burgenland installed on the roofs of the company buildings.

38 years of dedication and love

After 38 years, senior manager Maria Scheiblhofer has a different favourite: ‘My favourite wine is definitely Merlot,’ she smiles.

 

Together with her husband, she founded the company – from a mixed agricultural business with 0.5 hectares of vineyards to a pure wine-growing business with guest rooms and a wine tavern. “I am particularly proud of the further development by the next generation. And, of course, of being able to continue to help and shape it.

The post “Family First” on the Winery Scheiblhofer first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

The Taferner Winery is one of the leading estates in the Carnuntum region in Austria. Since 2022, Karoline Taferner has been managing the family business, drawing on a deep well of knowledge and experience. We sat down with the young winemaker for a conversation about roots, innovation, and the beauty of her craft.

Karo, your winery is a true family business. What defines it?

Karoline Taferner: We only started bottling our own wines in 1988, so our winery is still relatively young. For generations, we had a small vineyard, but the grapes were pressed just for our own consumption. Until I was about ten, our farm still had animals—pigs, cattle, a few rabbits and chickens. A proper mixed farm. Back then, we also grew sugar beets, wheat, and potatoes alongside the vines. Around the year 2000, our family decided to focus entirely on winemaking. The farmland was leased out, and the animals were sold.

My life has always been deeply connected to nature and family. Three generations still live and work together on our estate every single day. I was involved early on—helping with harvest, bottling, labeling, and even in our Heuriger wine tavern, which we now lease out. We were allowed to ride the tractor, smell the wine, and drink our own grape juice daily. I can’t really remember when I had my first sip of wine—but it was probably earlier than most! (laughs)

We work organically and sustainably, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. We believe that quality is created in the vineyard, not in the winery. That’s why we spend so much time among the vines ourselves. We only process grapes from our 25 hectares of vineyards—we know every single vine, and later, every barrel.

 

As managing director, what do you do differently from your family before you—and how does your degree in oenology influence your work?

I started studying viticulture at BOKU University in Vienna in 2015 and went abroad a few times to gain experience. I did one harvest in New Zealand and two in Australia, working in the cellar on red wines at three different wineries. I came back to Carnuntum in 2017. My father retired in October 2022, and since then, I’ve been running the estate. He still works hard, though—and so does my grandfather, who’s 88. Working in the vineyard keeps you young!

In 2019, we converted to organic cultivation, and starting with the 2022 vintage, all our wines are officially certified organic. I’ve refined small details in the cellar—things that help express the character of our individual sites: spontaneous fermentation for reds, temperature control, pressing white grapes with or without stems, fermenting whole clusters for reds, using gravity instead of pumping… My focus is on our single-vineyard white and red wines.

Austria has quite a few successful female winemakers, and empowerment is a big topic in the industry. Are you connected with other women in wine—and how do you see competition in your field?

I’m lucky here in Carnuntum to work alongside many amazing women. We’re connected, often friends, and we support each other. For me, gender doesn’t play a decisive role—wine made by women doesn’t taste any different than wine made by men. The younger generation is much more open-minded about that.

As for competition, it’s probably like in any other industry. There’s certainly a bit of rivalry, but there are also many who collaborate and learn from each other. The wine world is incredibly diverse—the styles, the philosophies, the ways of selling. There’s enough room for everyone to succeed.

What makes your region and its soils so special?

Carnuntum is the warmest—and at the same time one of the smallest—wine regions in Lower Austria. It’s best known for its red wines, especially Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, often blended with international varieties that thrive on our calcareous soils and under the continental climate.

Our rolling hills were shaped by an ancient sea more than two million years ago. The higher vineyards have gravel with limestone deposits, while the lower areas around Göttlesbrunn feature deep, loamy soils. Carnuntum enjoys over 300 windy days a year, and the mix of continental and Pannonian influences creates perfect conditions for healthy grapes. Our soils retain water well, so irrigation hasn’t been necessary so far.

The name Carnuntum dates back to Roman times. The Romans made wine here more than 2,000 years ago—back then, Carnuntum was a major military camp, larger than London or Paris at the time. They brought their winemaking techniques and planted vines in this very region.

What do you love most about your work?

That’s easy—the harvest! More precisely, the work in the cellar during harvest time. It’s the most intense, but also the most rewarding period. In 2017, I experienced three harvests in one year—my dream come true! To accompany the wine from grape to bottle, to fine-tune every step, and ultimately capture the essence of the vineyard in the bottle… it’s incredibly fulfilling. But I also love the rest of the year—working outdoors, watching the vines change with the seasons. And of course, tasting our wines and hearing feedback from customers—that’s always a special moment.

Do you have a personal favorite among your wines? And which regions do you enjoy beyond Austria?

It’s hard to pick a favorite—that’s like asking parents which child they love most! (laughs) I recommend different wines depending on the season, occasion, or food pairing. Each one has its own personality.

I’m very open when it comes to wines from other regions and love discovering new ones—whether through sommeliers in restaurants or blind tastings with friends. Of course, I adore the classics: Burgundy, Bordeaux, Piedmont… wines with complexity and finesse. But I also enjoy wines from the New World—Oregon, Napa Valley, Tasmania.

Do you also work with the Austrian hospitality scene? Any well-known names among your clients?

We supply the Austrian gastronomy scene almost entirely through our distributors. We have a network of partners across the country. But there are a few long-standing clients we still serve directly—such as Zum Schwarzen Kameel and the Haas Haus in Vienna.

The post Winemaker by Passion: A Conversation with Karoline Taferner first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.