Carinthian wine enjoys considerable recognition, often more so abroad than at home. This is surprising given that Carinthia is historically Austria’s oldest wine-growing region, offering particularly compelling climatic and geological conditions. Loschental, located in the Lavant Valley near St. Paul, lies at the heart of this tradition: it is part of Carinthia in southern Austria and represents the country’s oldest viticultural area.
“We have excellent conditions for wine production and several outstanding producers,” Sabine David explains. “Yet people in Carinthia sometimes still struggle to fully appreciate the value of wine from their own region.” Trained as a mechanical engineer, David entered winemaking as a career changer in 2010, initially cultivating a small vineyard as a hobby. The decisive step toward professional production came in 2012 with the purchase of the traditional farm known as vulgo Ritter in St. Paul im Lavanttal.

“Ritter,” meaning knight in German, is the historic Austrian name of the estate – an identity rooted in local tradition and still closely tied to the character of the winery today.

At present, four vineyards extend across two hectares, each defined by distinct soil profiles—a particularly intriguing aspect for wine connoisseurs. “I work with limestone soils, primary rock, and even up to two metres of clay sitting on a karst base,” says David, describing a combination that is unusual for Carinthia. “I find it fascinating to observe how different soils shape the character of the wines. Limestone-grown wines are typically lean and mineral,” she continues, referencing France’s Champagne region as the world’s most famous limestone terroir. “Clay is heavy, and the wines are broader and more powerful. Clay brings weight, while limestone delivers elegance and finesse.” These contrasts can be experienced directly during tastings, where guests sample three Chardonnays from three different vineyard sites, each defined by its soil type. The differences are unmistakable.

Alongside Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Muskateller, Pinot Noir, Rotburger and Blauburger, new grape varieties will soon enter production. A newly planted vineyard is farmed organically, without chemical plant protection. Here, Souvignier Gris is growing, but the focus lies on Satin Noir and Cabernet Cortis, which are intended to form a future cuvée. Family life is closely interwoven with the estate: the couple’s three children, still of kindergarten and primary school age, already help out enthusiastically in the vineyards. David’s husband, Dominique, has recently taken up craft brewing as a hobby. The estate also offers tastings in an idyllic farm setting, with the beers now available for purchase as well. In addition, the property serves as a venue for weddings, corporate events and private celebrations.

The wines of Weingut vlg. Ritter are highly regarded in Austrian gastronomy and hospitality, as well as by private customers, and are exported as far as the United States. Annual production amounts to around 10,000 bottles. The now well-known label features an illustration showing Dominique himself; its distinctive artistic style appears to give form to the “Ritter”.

Each year, the wines receive multiple international gold and silver awards. In addition, Sabine David has expanded the range to include vermouth. “For a long time, it was considered old-fashioned, but it has made a strong comeback as a long drink or as an aperitif,” she explains. “We serve it, for example, with tonic, and it’s extremely well received. We have everything we need right here: the wine, the grape spirit we produce ourselves, and the herbs from our own garden.” The estate’s first sparkling wine, Vin de Femme, produced in collaboration with fellow winemaker and farmer Martina Lippitz, has also enjoyed great success.

Last summer, David operated a pop-up vinotheque at Lake Klopeiner See together with fellow winemakers from Klagenfurt, the first of its kind, featuring exclusively Carinthian wines. “Wine lovers and gastronomy professionals came from all over Austria. Many told us they had heard a lot about Carinthian wine but had no idea where to find it.” Stronger word-of-mouth, better marketing and a reputation that truly reflects the quality of local wines are still in the making, says the Lavant Valley winemaker, who is working closely with her colleagues toward that goal. “The best advice I can give is to visit the winemakers directly, taste the wines on site, and experience the region’s true potential for yourself.”

The post The “Knight” and their Wine first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

 In Loschental near St. Paul (Carinthia, Austria), the Ritter vineyard produces Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and other varieties, and will soon be adding new organic varieties to its range. Sabine David’s multi-award-winning wines are pioneering the future of Carinthia as a wine-growing region.

Carinthian wine is very popular, but usually more so outside the region. This is despite the fact that Carinthia is historically Austria’s oldest wine-growing region and is interesting in terms of both climate and geology. ‘We have the best conditions for wine production and there are some very good producers. But Carinthians sometimes still find it difficult to appreciate wine from their own region,’ sums up winemaker Sabine David in an interview. The mechanical engineer started as a career changer with her first hobby vineyard in 2010. When she acquired the Hof vulgo Ritter in St. Paul im Lavanttal in 2012, the foundation for professional wine production was laid.

Today, four vineyards thrive on two hectares of land with different soil characteristics. This is an exciting factor for wine connoisseurs. ‘I have limestone soil, primary rock, but also two metres of loam on a karst stock,’ reveals David. This is an unusual combination for Carinthia. “I find it exciting to see what the soils are like and how they influence the taste. Limestone wines are usually very light and mineral,‘ the winemaker continues, referring to the French Champagne region as the most famous of all limestone regions. ’Loam soil is heavy, and the wines are also broader

and heavier. Loam is powerful, limestone produces light and elegant wines.” Guests can taste the direct difference in three Chardonnays – and taste it too!

 In addition to Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Muscat, Pinot Noir, Rotburger and Blauburger, new varieties are to be cultivated in the future. The new vineyard, which is organically farmed – i.e. without chemical plant protection products – is only a few months old. Souvignier Gris is grown there, but mainly Satin Noir and Cabernet Cortis, which are to be used to produce a cuvée. The three children, who are of nursery and primary school age, already help out actively in the vineyard. Dominique recently started brewing beer as a hobby. The winery also offers tastings at its idyllic farm, and the beers are now also available for purchase. In addition, the winery offers space for weddings, company outings and celebrations of all kinds.

Trade & Projects

The wines are appreciated in Austrian restaurants and hotels as well as by private customers, and are also exported to the USA. 10,000 bottles are produced annually, and the distinctive label features

an illustration by Sabine’s husband Dominique. Every year, the wines win several international gold and silver awards. Sabine has also started producing vermouth. “It was a dusty drink for a long time, but it’s back in vogue in the form of long drinks or as an aperitif! We serve it with tonic, for example, and it’s really popular. And we have everything we need for it: we

have the wine, we make the brandy and I add the herbs from the garden.”

Last summer, she ran a pop-up wine bar on Lake Klopeiner

See together with Klagenfurt winegrowers, the first of its kind, stocked exclusively with Carinthian wine. ‘Wine and food lovers from all over Austria came by. Many said they had heard a lot about Carinthian wine but didn’t know where to get it.’ Increased word of mouth, better marketing and a reputation that does justice to local wines are things that still need to develop, according to the friendly Lavant Valley native, who

is working together with colleagues to achieve this. ‘I can only recommend going directly to the winemakers to get to know the wines and get an idea of their potential.’

The post The Magic of the Soil: Winemaker Sabine David About Her Wines first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.

The Taferner Winery is one of the leading estates in the Carnuntum region in Austria. Since 2022, Karoline Taferner has been managing the family business, drawing on a deep well of knowledge and experience. We sat down with the young winemaker for a conversation about roots, innovation, and the beauty of her craft.

Karo, your winery is a true family business. What defines it?

Karoline Taferner: We only started bottling our own wines in 1988, so our winery is still relatively young. For generations, we had a small vineyard, but the grapes were pressed just for our own consumption. Until I was about ten, our farm still had animals—pigs, cattle, a few rabbits and chickens. A proper mixed farm. Back then, we also grew sugar beets, wheat, and potatoes alongside the vines. Around the year 2000, our family decided to focus entirely on winemaking. The farmland was leased out, and the animals were sold.

My life has always been deeply connected to nature and family. Three generations still live and work together on our estate every single day. I was involved early on—helping with harvest, bottling, labeling, and even in our Heuriger wine tavern, which we now lease out. We were allowed to ride the tractor, smell the wine, and drink our own grape juice daily. I can’t really remember when I had my first sip of wine—but it was probably earlier than most! (laughs)

We work organically and sustainably, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. We believe that quality is created in the vineyard, not in the winery. That’s why we spend so much time among the vines ourselves. We only process grapes from our 25 hectares of vineyards—we know every single vine, and later, every barrel.

 

As managing director, what do you do differently from your family before you—and how does your degree in oenology influence your work?

I started studying viticulture at BOKU University in Vienna in 2015 and went abroad a few times to gain experience. I did one harvest in New Zealand and two in Australia, working in the cellar on red wines at three different wineries. I came back to Carnuntum in 2017. My father retired in October 2022, and since then, I’ve been running the estate. He still works hard, though—and so does my grandfather, who’s 88. Working in the vineyard keeps you young!

In 2019, we converted to organic cultivation, and starting with the 2022 vintage, all our wines are officially certified organic. I’ve refined small details in the cellar—things that help express the character of our individual sites: spontaneous fermentation for reds, temperature control, pressing white grapes with or without stems, fermenting whole clusters for reds, using gravity instead of pumping… My focus is on our single-vineyard white and red wines.

Austria has quite a few successful female winemakers, and empowerment is a big topic in the industry. Are you connected with other women in wine—and how do you see competition in your field?

I’m lucky here in Carnuntum to work alongside many amazing women. We’re connected, often friends, and we support each other. For me, gender doesn’t play a decisive role—wine made by women doesn’t taste any different than wine made by men. The younger generation is much more open-minded about that.

As for competition, it’s probably like in any other industry. There’s certainly a bit of rivalry, but there are also many who collaborate and learn from each other. The wine world is incredibly diverse—the styles, the philosophies, the ways of selling. There’s enough room for everyone to succeed.

What makes your region and its soils so special?

Carnuntum is the warmest—and at the same time one of the smallest—wine regions in Lower Austria. It’s best known for its red wines, especially Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, often blended with international varieties that thrive on our calcareous soils and under the continental climate.

Our rolling hills were shaped by an ancient sea more than two million years ago. The higher vineyards have gravel with limestone deposits, while the lower areas around Göttlesbrunn feature deep, loamy soils. Carnuntum enjoys over 300 windy days a year, and the mix of continental and Pannonian influences creates perfect conditions for healthy grapes. Our soils retain water well, so irrigation hasn’t been necessary so far.

The name Carnuntum dates back to Roman times. The Romans made wine here more than 2,000 years ago—back then, Carnuntum was a major military camp, larger than London or Paris at the time. They brought their winemaking techniques and planted vines in this very region.

What do you love most about your work?

That’s easy—the harvest! More precisely, the work in the cellar during harvest time. It’s the most intense, but also the most rewarding period. In 2017, I experienced three harvests in one year—my dream come true! To accompany the wine from grape to bottle, to fine-tune every step, and ultimately capture the essence of the vineyard in the bottle… it’s incredibly fulfilling. But I also love the rest of the year—working outdoors, watching the vines change with the seasons. And of course, tasting our wines and hearing feedback from customers—that’s always a special moment.

Do you have a personal favorite among your wines? And which regions do you enjoy beyond Austria?

It’s hard to pick a favorite—that’s like asking parents which child they love most! (laughs) I recommend different wines depending on the season, occasion, or food pairing. Each one has its own personality.

I’m very open when it comes to wines from other regions and love discovering new ones—whether through sommeliers in restaurants or blind tastings with friends. Of course, I adore the classics: Burgundy, Bordeaux, Piedmont… wines with complexity and finesse. But I also enjoy wines from the New World—Oregon, Napa Valley, Tasmania.

Do you also work with the Austrian hospitality scene? Any well-known names among your clients?

We supply the Austrian gastronomy scene almost entirely through our distributors. We have a network of partners across the country. But there are a few long-standing clients we still serve directly—such as Zum Schwarzen Kameel and the Haas Haus in Vienna.

The post Winemaker by Passion: A Conversation with Karoline Taferner first appeared on STAGES OF TASTE – Magazine.